For example, if you want to polish scuffs out of something like an aluminum stove or fridge, you might want to mask off things like control panels if they are near the scratched area. This method works for very minor scuffs and scratches. Keep in mind that you won’t be able to get the aluminum looking like it is straight out of the factory, but you will be able to hide the scuffs and shine up the metal. You’ll get the best results using this method if you polish the entire aluminum surface, not just the scuffed area, so that the finish looks uniformly shiny when you’re done. However, if the scuffed area isn’t too conspicuous, such as in a corner of an aluminum stove door, you can just polish the scuff marks out and blend it in to the surrounding metal as much as possible.
Most aluminum has a unidirectional grain, which are actually brush marks caused by the original polishing process that the aluminum went through. Never rub the scouring pad across this grain or you might end up making the scuffs worse. If the aluminum item you want to polish doesn’t have a visible grain, just pick a direction to rub the scouring pad in and only move it back and forth in this direction. Don’t change directions or move it in circular motions or you might just create more scuff marks. Scouring pads are also known as buffing pads. The finer the git, the better for this job. You can get a fine-grit scouring pad at an auto detail supply shop.
You can use a special aluminum polish or any type of metal polish you have available, such as a pewter polish. Both will work to shine up the surface.
This will seal the aluminum and protect it from oxidation and corrosion. You can get metal waxes and sealants at an auto detail supply shop or at a hardware and home improvement store in the paints and coatings section.
This method is known as wet sanding. You can do it with water too, but WD-40 is the best lubricant when you are sanding bare metal. You can use this method to sand and polish out curb damage on an aluminum car wheel or bicycle crank shaft, for example. Since you’ll be actually removing a layer of metal using this method, the final results will look best if you sand and polish the entire aluminum object, not just the scratched part. For instance, if you want to polish scratches out of the face of an aluminum wheel, sand the entire wheel down.
Keep in mind that if there are very deep dents and gouges in the aluminum, you won’t be able to polish them out completely by sanding. However, you can at least make them less visible and restore shine to the surrounding surface. Make sure that the sandpaper you used is labelled as safe for wet sanding. Most fine-grit sandpaper is OK to use for wet sanding, but double-check the packaging or the back of the paper to be sure. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when you sand metal, especially if you are using a powerful electric sander.
If you don’t have exactly 1500-grit sandpaper, it’s fine to use another very fine-grit sandpaper. Anywhere between 1000-grit and 2000-grit is fine for this step.
If you don’t want a super-shiny, mirror-like finish, you can use sandpaper that is slightly less than 3000-grit to finish sanding. For example, something between 2000-grit and 2500-grit. If there is no more WD-40 left on the aluminum by this stage, spray a little directly onto the sandpaper to lubricate it for this last round of sanding. This will help make the aluminum extra-shiny and carry away fine metal particles so they don’t stick to the surface.
You’ll know the polish is doing its job when the polishing cloth or pad starts to get black. If you don’t see this black residue on your cloth or pad, rub harder and keep working the polish in all over the surface until you do.
You can keep buffing the aluminum until you achieve the level of shine you want. However, once there are no streaks or other residue from the polish left on the surface, feel free to stop.
