Air bubbles in resin are just trapped pockets of air. Hot air rises. If you can heat the bubbles, they’ll naturally lift out on their own.
If you’re using resin with a dye in it, use lukewarm water instead. For some brands of dyed resin, hot water can cause the pigment and resin to separate.
Do not fill the inside of the cup with water to avoid contaminating your resin.
Pouring the resin slowly ensures that it doesn’t catch any air underneath it as it fills the pouring cup. Move the resin container up as your cup fills up.
For maximum efficiency, stir the resin while the mixing cup is sitting in warm water. Be careful to avoid spilling water into the cup, though.
Mixing, heating, and letting your resin rest should all work to remove a vast majority of the bubbles in your resin.
For irregularly-shaped molds, move the cup back and forth across the mold carefully.
For irregularly-shaped molds, move the cup in an oval pattern as you move back and forth across the middle of the mold.
Working in separate layers avoids burying bubbles in the bottom of the resin. It takes resin 2-3 hours to dry anyway, so you don’t need to worry about the resin setting.
Do not use a hair dryer. The forceful air will cause the resin to splash and split. You’ll end up with an uneven finish and ruin whatever surface you’re working on. Read a bottle of resin carefully to determine whether or not the material is flammable. Most resins that are marketed for DIY crafts are non-flammable.
The safety switch for a butane torch is usually a slide on the side of the torch, or underneath the nozzle. Some torches require you to hold a safety down while pulling the trigger to create the flame.
Some bubbles simply aren’t going to come out. Don’t heat the resin for so long that you’re going to change the consistency. If you need to heat an area for more than 30 seconds, you may be stuck with the bubble.
